Bleaching natural hair is a process that lightens your hair by removing its natural pigment (melanin) using chemicals like hydrogen peroxide and bleach powder. Since bleaching can be damaging, it’s important to follow the steps carefully and take precautions to maintain hair health.
Supplies Needed for Hair Bleaching
- Bleach powder
- Developer (hydrogen peroxide; usually 20 or 30 volume for natural hair)
- Gloves
- Mixing bowl and brush
- Plastic cap or foil (optional)
- Sectioning clips
- Conditioner and deep conditioning mask
- Neutralizing shampoo (optional)
Steps to Bleach Natural Hair:
1. Start with Healthy Hair:
- Make sure your hair is in good condition before bleaching. Deep condition it at least a week before.
- Avoid bleaching if you have very dry or damaged hair to prevent excessive breakage.
2. Gather Your Supplies:
- Use a 20-volume developer if you want to lighten your hair by 1-2 levels.
- Use a 30-volume developer for a more dramatic lift (3-4 levels) but be cautious as it’s stronger and can be more damaging.
3. Protect Your Skin and Clothes:
- Wear gloves to protect your hands.
- Put on an old t-shirt and drape a towel around your shoulders.
4. Section Your Hair:
- Divide your hair into 4-6 sections with clips, ensuring that each part is manageable. This helps ensure even application.
5. Mix the Bleach and Developer:
- Follow the instructions on the bleach powder packaging for the correct ratio (usually 1:2 bleach powder to developer).
- Mix the bleach powder and developer in a non-metal bowl until smooth and lump-free.
6. Apply the Bleach:
- Starting at the ends of your hair (since roots process faster), apply the bleach with a brush, working from the ends up toward the roots.
- Save the roots for last, as they lighten faster due to the heat from your scalp.
7. Monitor the Processing:
- After applying the bleach, check your hair every 10-15 minutes to see how light it’s becoming. You should never leave bleach on your hair for more than 30-45 minutes.
- If your hair turns the desired lightness before that time, rinse it out.
8. Rinse Out the Bleach:
- Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water to remove the bleach. Use a neutralizing shampoo if you have one to stop the chemical process.
9. Condition Deeply:
- Apply a deep conditioner to restore moisture and reduce damage caused by the bleaching process. Leave it on for at least 10-20 minutes.
10. Tone Your Hair (Optional):
- If your hair has unwanted yellow or orange tones, use a toner (purple or blue) to neutralize brassy undertones.
Post-Bleach Care:
- Moisturize regularly: Natural hair tends to be drier, and bleaching can exacerbate that. Use leave-in conditioners, oils (like argan or coconut oil), and deep conditioning treatments weekly.
- Avoid heat: Try to avoid excessive heat styling to prevent further damage.
- Protein treatments: Incorporate protein treatments to strengthen your hair and minimize breakage.
Caution:
- Bleaching natural hair is a chemical process that can lead to damage or breakage if done improperly. Consider doing a strand test before bleaching your entire head.
- If you’re uncertain, visiting a professional stylist is the safest option.
DOs of Natural Hair Bleaching
Bleaching natural hair can be tricky and requires extra care to avoid damage. Here are some important DOs and DON’Ts to follow:
- DO deep condition before bleaching:
- Prepare your hair with moisture and protein treatments at least a week before to ensure it’s in the healthiest condition.
- DO perform a strand test:
- Always test a small section of hair to see how your hair reacts to the bleach before applying it all over.
- DO use the right developer strength:
- Use a 20-volume developer for mild lifting and a 30-volume developer for more intense lifting, but avoid using higher volumes on natural hair to prevent excessive damage.
- DO apply bleach on dry, unwashed hair:
- The natural oils on your scalp help protect your hair and skin during the bleaching process.
- DO section your hair:
- Divide your hair into small, manageable sections to ensure even application and prevent missing spots.
- DO use a toner after bleaching:
- Toner helps neutralize unwanted brassiness (yellow or orange tones) in bleached hair.
- DO condition after bleaching:
- Follow up with a deep conditioner or a reparative mask immediately after bleaching to restore moisture and strength to your hair.
- DO regularly moisturize and care for bleached hair:
- After bleaching, natural hair will need extra moisture to prevent dryness and breakage. Use leave-in conditioners, oils, and hair masks regularly.
- DO monitor the bleach processing time:
- Check your hair every 10-15 minutes to avoid over-processing. Hair can get damaged if bleach is left on too long.
- DO seek professional help if unsure:
- If it’s your first time bleaching or if you have doubts, it’s always safer to visit a professional stylist.
DON’Ts of Natural Hair Bleaching:
- DON’T bleach damaged or weak hair:
- Avoid bleaching if your hair is already damaged or overly dry. This can cause breakage and further weaken your hair.
- DON’T bleach freshly washed hair:
- Washing strips away the protective natural oils from your scalp, which can make the process more irritating and damaging.
- DON’T leave bleach on for too long:
- Never leave bleach on your hair for more than 30-45 minutes, even if your hair hasn’t lifted to the desired shade.
- DON’T use high-volume developer (above 30):
- Developers stronger than 30 volume are too harsh for natural hair and can cause severe damage, breakage, or burns.
- DON’T skip aftercare:
- Bleaching can dry out your hair, so don’t neglect the need for deep conditioning, moisturizing, and protein treatments after the process.
- DON’T use heat immediately after bleaching:
- Avoid heat styling (blow dryers, flat irons) right after bleaching, as your hair will already be weakened and prone to breakage.
- DON’T overlap bleach applications:
- When retouching roots, avoid reapplying bleach to previously bleached sections of hair to prevent over-processing and damage.
- DON’T rush through the process:
- Be patient and careful during application. Rushing could lead to uneven results and damage.
- DON’T forget to protect your skin:
- Use a barrier cream or petroleum jelly around your hairline, neck, and ears to prevent irritation from the bleach.
- DON’T use metal tools:
- Avoid mixing bleach in metal bowls or using metal clips, as bleach can react with metal and become less effective.
By following these guidelines, you can help minimize the damage caused by bleaching and maintain the health of your natural hair.